FREE Blender Sound Enclosure Box Assembly Instructions

This Blender Sound Enclosure Box Design is retrofitted to fit these blenders:
Before you consider building the sound enclosure yourself, please may we caution you. A lot can go wrong when you build the sound enclosure box for your Vita Mix blender, or your Blendtec Blender. For example, you might use insufficient bonding solvent and the sound enclosure box for your Vita Mix blender or your Blendtec Blender then could fall apart. Or if you use too much adhesive bonding solvent, the sound enclosure box could fall apart as well. And you could have some spilling and your sound enclosure for your blender looks not very nice. Remember, this should be a tool you will look at every day. You should use the sound enclosure box every day with all of your applications. This way, the noise won't bother you or any of your family members. So, we suggest that you consider letting us build the sound enclosure.

Please remember, we can customize the sound enclosure components and the box for you.

Below is the Sound Enclosure Box designed to fit the Blendtec Blenders. It is still in its wrapper - protective paper. Obviously, you will have to pull of the paper if you want to enjoy the beauty of the clarity of acrylic. The paper does not look good anyway. But we wanted you to see it, so you know exactly what you are getting and what it will look like.


These images below show the Acrylic Sound Enclosure Box, in this case the one designed to fit the Vitamix blenders, those that have the equal dimension as the Vita Mix 5200 Blender and the Vita Mix 4500 Turbo Blender...






Parts list: Design for Blendtec HP3A, Total Blender, EZ Blender
  • A = Left Side Panel (9.5" x 16 1/8")
  • B = Right Side Panel (9.5" x 161/8")
  • C = Back Panel (9.5" x 20.5")
  • D = Front Door (9.5" x 15.5")
  • E = Front Bottom Panel (9.5" x 5.0")
  • F = Top Lid (9.5" x 10")
  • G = Top Bar (3.4" x 9 1/8")
  • E TOP = 1/2" Front Top Bar x 9.5" (only on the design for the Blendtec Blenders
  • 2 sets of Hinges (2 each)
  • 1 Applicator with 1/2 fl oz # 3(TM) Adhesive Solvent

Important Notation to the G Bar and Top E Front Bar (Only in the Blender sound enclosure box assembly for the the design that fits the Blendtec Blenders):

# 1 = Side view from the left. D = the front door. The Top E Front Bar is located above the D front door, permanently installed. On # 2, the G Bar, inside the box between A + B, is adhered to the Top E Front Bar, which is going to be adhered on the outside of A + B

In order to get the side panels A and B equally lined up on the top and allowing for the bottom left and right ventilation areas, it is important that you lay the box assembly A + B + C on its front side where the TOP E Front Bar, the D front door and the E front panel are going to be installed.  Line up these 3 front components with the top ridge of A and B and you will have a square box assembly. See image section 3 on the drawing to the right.

Parts list: Design for Vitamix 4500 Turbo, Vita Mix 5000, Vita Mix 5200 TNC, Vita Prep 2 and 3 hp Blenders...
  • A = Left Side Panel (9.5" x 16 1/8")
  • B = Right Side Panel (9.5" x 161/8")
  • C = Back Panel (9.5" x 20.5")
  • D = Front Door (9.5" x 15.5")
  • E = Front Bottom Panel (9.5" x 5.0")
  • F = Top Lid (9.5" x 10")
  • G = Top Bar (3.4" x 9 1/8")
  • 2 sets of Hinges (2 each)
  • 1 Applicator with 1/2 fl oz # 3(TM) Adhesive Solvent

Blender Sound Enclosure Box View from Left and Right

Notation: The Top E Bar is only part of the blender sound enclosure box designed to fit the Blendtec HP3A, Total Blender, and EZ Blender. The blender sound enclosure box that is made to fit the Vitamix 4500, Vita Mix 5200, Vita Mix 5000, and the alike others in 2 hp and 3 hp blender configurations, does not include the Top E Bar (highlighted in yellow).

  • D = Door with Hinges to the left
  • A = Left Side Panel
  • B = Right Side Panel
  • C= is the Back Panel
  • E = is the front bottom Panel
  • Top E Bar (on the Design fitting Blendtec...) is above the Door D, on the outside, permanently adhered to A and B
  • F = is the Top Lid with hinges to the left
  • G Bar = (Highlighted) is the bracket bar on the top in both applications (for Blendtec and Vitamix designs), located inside behind the Door D and between panels A and B.
  • The G Bar is adhered to the Top E Bar in the box application designed to fit the Blendtec 3 hp blenders. Both, the F-top lid and the Door D close onto the G Bar in a way that they are flush.

Caution: We do not sand corners and edges on assembled sound enclosure boxes and/or on parts kits. Acrylic edges and corners are usually not sharp enough to cause cuts. But caution is always advised - See Warranty for Disclaimer



Door Handle / Door Knobs are not supplied. The Lid F and the Door D are slightly reaching over the edge and to the right above panel B and subsequently from Door D on the right side by about 1/8" +/-.


Note above in drawing the Ventilation Areas located on the bottom below the panels A and B, left and right. This should be sufficient enough to provide for cooling air. But circumstances in different blending habits may vary. Therefore see our Disclaimers.

Begin the assembly by pealing back enough paper area from the 3/16"  thick Cell-Cast Acrylic Back Panel C on the left and set the acrylic panel A - Left Side at the top edge  lined up with C (see drawing to the left). Then apply the adhesive as shown 2 images below and hold the panel A down for about 10 to 20 seconds. Make sure you are in a square (approximating it / eye-balling, or using a square tool inside or out). Then repeat this process with the Right-Side Panel B. Pull back first the right side paper on panel C...only enough to expose about 1 " or less area.

Above shows what it looks like from the right side with the panel C flat on its back on the smooth surface.  Note how A and B line up with C top on the right side.  The drawing is not to scale....

The top edge of Panel C (bottom) with Panel A in place where the top edges are lined up.


This is the outside of the panel A on top of panel C, what it should look like. Make sure that the Panel A is tightly fitted onto Panel C - see 1 image below for detail drawing


Apply the applicator needle (not a medical device) - don't poke your eye (wear goggles and keep away from children - minors) in about 45 degrees, sliding the applicator bottle-first along-side the weld-area. The solvent will distribute itself between the weld / bond area. There is no need to apply the solvent on the opposite side... you may, if you want to do it, but it is not necessary because the acrylic is only 3/16" thick; It will absorb it.




Here you see Panel A (left) in place and the protective paper already pulled back, ready for the assembly of Panel B.

It is not necessary to squeeze the bottle. The bonding adhesive will liberally exit through the applicator 25 gauge-thin needle once you turn the applicator bottle up-side-down. Have a clean towel or paper towel ready for any cleanup to prevent accidents and also spills that could cause blemishes on the exposed acrylic surface areas (That is why you want to expose as little as possible of the beautiful acrylic surfaces and keep the protective paper on as much area as possible). Do not sniff - see MSDS sheet.
Bonding / Adhesive Solvent Notation:

Please note, the solvent is non-flammable. It is recommended that you wear latex gloves. If you are right handed and use the applicator in your right hand, then hold the panel with your left hand after lining it up as above and to the right here.

Then turn the applicator over and pull it up-side-down along-side inside the box assembly along the joint of panel A and C first. Then quickly, while still holding panel A with your left hand, put the applicator to the side (safely) and affix the panel A onto Panel C (as shown in image right). Adjust immediately if required with focus on the outside and the top side alignment. Then hold the panel down in a square 90 degrees to the panel C (gentle pressure about 10 pounds) while counting 21, 22, 23, etc... until 15 to 20 seconds have passed. 10 seconds is asked for, but we have found its better to press 5 seconds or so longer.

Don't move the panel yet at this time. Repeat the process with Panel B - See image one up and one to the right, and the one to right from here.




Again, don't lift up the assembly at this time for about one to two minutes or so, or the assembly could fall apart. Then carefully take the assembly by the Panel C, supporting Panel A and B and flip the assembly over.


Above is the assembly of Panel B to Panel C (Right Side). Just slide the Panel C on its back on the smooth surface / table over to accommodate you being left or right-handed. Make sure you align the top (to the left here in this picture) so the Panel B on the bottom (picture shows the bottom on the top right) is 3/8" shorter than the Panel C. This is the ventilation area necessary for the blender motor cooling - See Warranty and Disclaimer section.

Here you see both Panel A and B adhered already to the Back Panel C, laying on its back, flat, on a smooth surface. The bottom of the blender sound enclosure box is to the right in the picture.


Checking:

Did you make sure that you have Panel C on the bottom stick out by 3/8", right? This is important because it will provide for the ventilation area to help prevent overheating of the blender motor. (See our disclaimers and Warranty section).

Assembly of Front Panel E (both designs fitting Vitamix and Blendtec Dimensions)

Please note, the blender sound enclosure box that fits the Vitamix 5200 and alike designs does not have the Top E Front Bar above the Door D.

Place the door with the design that fits the Vitamix blenders on the surface (with the design that fits the Blendtec dimensions place the Top E Front Bar first, then below the D Door). Then place the Front Panel E onto the table surface.

Make sure you have pealed back the protective paper about 0.75 to 1 inch. Then gently maneuver the assembly of Panels A, B, and C on its front face where the door D and the Front Panel E are supposed to go. The bottom of the blender sound enclosure box for both, the Vitamix and the Blendtec Blenders' fitting designs should be pointing towards you.

Make again sure that you have 3/8" on Panel E sticker out as seen on the picture. The sound box will stand on Panel E and Panel C.

Then use the solvent applicator as shown in the picture. Keep a clean towel near by so you can wipe any spills off right away to avoid blemishes on the cell-cast acrylic.

Solvent instructions
Make sure you read the MSDS information before you use of the solvent. Use goggles and latex cloves. The picture shows hands without cloves. This is because the picture is imitated. The seems were already adhered previously. We just wanted to show what it approximately might look like when using the applicator and we used here an empty one.

Picture Below: Top-View of the Sound Box design view that fits the Vitamix 5200 alike blenders.

Note, the G Bar position behind the Door D and in between Panels A and B. This is of course on top. Make sure it installs flush so the D Door in the front can close as well as the Top Lid F can close too.

And then again, scroll down little further to see the design difference that fits the Blendtec HP3A blenders or EZ Blenders...


Applicator of Solvent in about 45 degrees to the seam
Picture above to the right shows the position of the # 3(TM) solvent applicator.


Picture to the right shows another view of the position of the G Bar with the Panel B to the right and Panel A to the left.










Pictures both below and below right show the pressure application after applying the solvent. Hold / Press assertively for minimum of 10 seconds or longer. Then several hours later check for weld joint stability!

Sound Enclosure Box Design that fits the Vitamix 5200 or Vita Mix 4500 Turbo Blender alike design dimensions.

If you look carefully, you will notice that in this image to the left, the G Bar  was installed incorrectly. The design calls for the G Bar to be installed like in the image to the right.

It does really not matter in the design that fits the Vitamix Blenders. It gives the sound enclosure box equal strength and stability either way. The top lid F and Door D close flush with the panels A and B and that is the most important thing that matters here.

However, it would matter  with the Sound Enclosure Box Design made to fit the Blendtec HP3A Blender. Therefore, be careful you install this correctly.

Sound Enclosure Box Design that fits the Blendtec HP3A, EZ Blender, and Total Blender dimensions.

In this image to the left, please note the Top G Bar on top in between Panel A and B and the Top E Front Bar below. The Top E Front Bar is adhered to the G Bar (remove the protective paper completely on the inside of the acrylic bar Top E). Make sure it is outside of the panels A and B. You can't fit it inside between A and B anyway since its length is 9 1/2". Install the G Bar first. Then adhere the Top E Bar to A, B, and G. Keep a clean towel near by..

Have the blender sound enclosure box lay on its back panel C. Place the Door D on it, and roll back the protective paper about 1 inch where the hinges will be installed. Have the door edge on the left line up where the hinges are being installed parallel with the panel A-edge about  1/16" (right-ward).
Make sure it is square and parallel. Then don't move it anymore and get ready for the hinges to be place on the door first!

Place the hinges symmetrically & space apart on the left edge of the D Door as in pictures above right and left & right. No specific measurement needed (eye-ball it, decide for your self).

Then make certain that both parts are 90 degrees to each other.

Hold in place while carefully doting the solvent applicator just enough to give it a first grip / hold. Then hold for min. 10 seconds. Repeat with the other part of the hinge on panel A.

When stable, don't move the box yet; apply more solvent, again using the towel. The solvent will distribute itself into any vacant gap between the joint welds. The adhesive will literally weld the acrylic components together. You just have to hold it together after the solvent application for 10 seconds minimum.

The Hinges are literally the hardest part to install. This is where you can mess up the looks of your sound enclosure box.

Make sure you always have the towel in place to wipe the excess solvent off right away.

Make sure also that you place sufficient solvent in both parts of the hinges, but not too much. You will be able to see how just by a touch of the tip of the applicator ,the solvent distributes itself into the vacant joint/weld areas.

Again, make sure to check all seems and apply pressure for minimum of 10 seconds. Then leave alone. Don't pack it up or wrap the sound enclosure box. Keep it in a well ventilated area for the lumes to dissapate. And don't sniff the box, or the solvent from the bottle (it is poison). Use cloves and goggles.


IF YOU MESS UP, A HAMMER MIGHT COME IN HANDY TO FIX THE  JOINTS... NO, NOT REALLY! AFTER 10 SECONDS THE BOND IS PRETTY STRONG. AFTER 20 SECONDS IT IS PRETTY MUCH PERMANENT, AND AFTER A MINUTE, FORGET IT, THE BOND WILL BE UNBREAKABLE.... WELL, MAYBE WITH A HAMMER..., BUT IT WILL BE UGLY!
This is what the sound enclosure box will look like when you get it delivered from us assembled.

Pull off the paper, obviously, unless you like to protect your acrylic sound box for ever.

In this picture you also can see the location of the Top lid and the hinges, also attached on the left side of the Lid F, and on the top edge of Pane A. Follow instructions and process as above with the Front Door D.


If you lay the box down for better lid installation for easier access or for checking various joints welds, make sure you do not press on the panel A while the box is laying on panel B. You can see that the door overlaps (left picture). This  overlap is used for opening  & closing it. If you apply pressure onto the door before the weld / bond has cured (for 24+ hours), you will break off the hinges. Therefore make sure you place something below Panel B to lift the  box off from the table as seen in picture above.
Check all joints and welds by gently pressing on the panel as shown in the picture. If you missed a spot of applicator solvent, you will know right away.

Turn the box in a position (carefully supporting the joints) so you can apply more solvent on the subject area joint / seem s always downwards.

If you did apply solvent right where the thumb in the picture is, on that end of the box, it could be done, but make sure you place a clean towel on the other side of the joint..., Then hold the box on the opposite side and press for minimum of 10 seconds for a perfect bond.
Again, this is the Blender Sound Enclosure Box designed to fit the Blendtec HP3A and EZ Blenders... See the Top G Bar and the Top E Front Bar joined together. The Box designed to fit the Vitamix 5200 Blender dimensions is to the left.

After a few hours of leaving your assembly project to cure, check the hinges and all seems / joints carefully. Handle with care. Don't pull off the protective paper yet.

If you find an area that has not been welded, now is the time to apply the solvent there.


Above is the Blender Sound Enclosure Box designed to fit the Vita Mix 4500 Turbo blender and other Vitamix blenders with equal dimensions.
The box is ready-cured after about 24 hours minimum. It takes about a good hour or less to assemble the blender sound enclosure box. We will include in the parts kit a few spare pieces for you to practice your welds  before you get started.

Make sure to be extra careful with the welding on of the hinges. They need to be carefully lined up as we explained above. Make sure they are exactly in a 90 degrees from each other's hinge part.

You can change the directions of how you want the door and the lid to open by yourself. But consider our opinion. We think the lid and the door should open into the same direction. So, if you change the door to open to the right instead of to the left, then place the hinges onto the right side edge of the door and the left side edge of panel B. And then also place the hinges of the Top Lid F onto the right side and the other ends of the hinges in a 90 degree on the top of panel B.

One other concern: Make sure that the top lid is correctly placed before you weld on the hinges on the top. The blender sound enclosure box is not square. Each major side panel is 9 1/2 inches wide. Because the front and back panels are welded onto the outside of the edges of panels A and B, this ads 6/16 of an inch to the the 9 1/2 inch width. The top lid F has a width of 10 inches by 9 1/2 inches. Line it up accordingly so you have no sound escape, the 10 inch width of the F lid to be on the side of panel A...

Mess Up Advise
If you mess up so badly that you realized you should not have done this yourself, we are very sorry. Once the bonds are dry between the joints of the acrylic panels, we are afraid it is permanent. Not even a hammer can break these bonds easily. You will destroy the panels and hinges, etc... if you tried to force the panels apart. When you first apply the bonding solvent, you have a few seconds to correct any misplaced joint. It is really best that you study the layout first before you begin the assembly, and lay out the panels on the table. Identify each of them so you know where each part goes. Practice a few times applying the solvent with the applicator, using the extra spare - junk parts. And if after reading these instructions, you are not sure that you want to do this, spend the extra 20$ or $ 30 bucks to get a perfect sound enclosure box with a 6 months warranty delivered to you, fully assembled.

Disclaimers & Warranty & Terms and Conditions

Delivery and Unpacking

The assembled blender sound enclosure box is going to be delivered about 95% wrapped in its original protective paper / vinyl. When unpacking don't use a large knife that could penetrate the protective paper and scratch the acrylic. Also, use much care unwrapping it slowly. Do not use excessive force. See Build Instructions on the bottom to learn about things to do and what not to do!

A Word of Caution & Disclaimers

Building or assembling the blender sound enclosure box is like making cookies. It is not difficult to do if you follow the instructions and if you have some experience. It would be beneficial if you had acrylic assembly experience (for example with the IPS # 3(TM) Solvent), it would help you to assemble a beautiful box versus an ugly sound box. If you mess it up, you have to keep looking at an ugly box for years to come. To the other hand, there is a significant money savings when assembling your own blender sound enclosure box. Significant means that it is in the $ 40 to $ 50.00. It does take a good 1 hour to assemble. And then you have to let the sound enclosure cure for about 24 to 30 hours. There is little follow up work required. And of course studying the plans and the assembly instructions, etc... takes time too. But, you could have some real fun, as a family for example, to assemble your sound enclosure box together (with safety precaution in mind, of course).

Usual mistakes or problems occur when not experienced working with acrylic and bonding adhesive are: run-off that results in cosmetic blemishes, falling apart or not holding together very well, and having to redo the installation of doors and the hinges may become necessary. Remember, once acrylic has bonded and has cured, only a hammer will break off e.g. wrong installed hinges. And that will really destroy your box. So be careful and follow our installation instructions. And if not sure, let us do it for you. Please note, we are not responsible for you messing up the parts kit and no refunds will be given if you decide to assemble the blender sound enclosure box parts kit yourself.


USE AND CARE

The front door allows you to load and unload the blender Jar / Container to and from the blender in the blender sound enclosure box. You simply open the front door on the right towards the left (hinge side custom modification is possible) and grab the Blendtec Container / Jar by the handle,  - or the Vitamix Container - and move it upwards about 1 inch (this will open the top lid upwards). Then move the container out by slightly dipping the top towards the back and the bottom towards you. And when you use it, you will, see it is really not as complicated.

We installed a front top bar and panel for stability. The front bottom panel adds also stability to the sound box. The door access in the front gives you perfect load/unload and blender control. The keypad is easy reachable.

The factory has advised us to allow ample ventilation so the blenders won't overheat while operating inside a sound enclosure. These ventilation areas are on the left and right side panels on the bottom 3/8" inches by 9 1/2" inches. Either side of the ventilation areas can be used to exit the power cable.

Please note, we do not guarantee whether the ventilation area is sufficient. A blender may overheat whether or not you are using a sound enclosure box. It depends on 'how' use, frequency of use, what ingredients are used, how old the blender is and so on... many variables exist. Our design in our opinion is adequate for the ventilation. If you are concerned, you can make these ventilation areas bigger, or request a custom modification of your assembled sound enclosure box, or the parts kit you desire to buy from us. And if you have your own design, well, you are welcome to copy ours with your own modification(s) and make your own box. SEE WARRANTY AND DISCLAIMER SECTION for more info. Hopefully you can tell us about your own improvements.

Wash the acrylic surface with liquid soap and warm water carefully, using a soft sponge or towel. Don't use anything that could scratch the acrylic surface. A window cleaning solution with paper towel works also really well keeping the acrylic sound enclosure box nice and shiny.


See Warranty and Disclaimer Information


  Parts Kit    -    Material Facts



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